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76
Design Resource
Cotton Sari Weaving - Yadgiri, Karnataka
Handloom Fabrics
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baraland Srikanth B.
Introduction
The sari is one of the most primitive styles of unstitched garment used since Indus Valley Civilization, being a precursor for the patterns created even today. Over the millennia, it has not only become an aesthetic wear for women, but also a canvas for weavers and printers to make artistic patterns, prints, and jeweled embellishments. According to legends, both the cotton fiber and the art of weaving reached India from the Mesopotamian civilization. Hence the civilians from the contemporary Indus Valley Civilization were familiar with the fibers and wore long loincloths. Many other civilizations also found women wearing these loin cloths around their waist, leaving the upper body bare, except in cold climate when animal skins or woolen shawls were used. Their style of draping was generally in Kachcha style, in which after the cloth goes around the waist, the person takes one end of the cloth or the center pleat between the legs and tucks it up behind for free movement of the lower body and the legs. Early history records that this style of clothing was not only limited to Mesopotamia or the Indus Valley but was common to Egypt, Sumer, and Assyria. Archives underline the role of Aryans too, who after moving southwards from north India, adopted the practice of wearing cotton cloths, structurally similar to the Indus Valley clothing style. Medieval India was also moved by all these rich influences, hence the royal families preferred the finest cotton fabrics that induct in their splendor. Hence the works of the master weavers were greatly looked upon by the craftsmen of coming ages, for their detailing and metal embellishments. Therefore Indian textile art is still held high in the annals of trade around the world.
Traditionally, the dyes used for giving colour to the saris were made out of materials from nature like turmeric, indigo plant, nuts, flowers, fruits, and even barks of trees. The colourful designs were printed using wooden blocks carved with fashionable motifs traveled to India from France, Portugal, and England. The Indian motifs were rich and elaborate while the European motifs were more gentle and simple, making the Indian version more authentic and precious for its minute details. Though after Industrialization, these traditional weavers encountered a set back with the advent of power looms and mechanized printing. The greatest heritage the Indian textile weaving gave to its natives was the sari that measures to five and a half meters in length and about one and one-eighth meters in width. Interestingly, even with each new advancements in textile technology, the sari could still maintain its place as the most well-accepted clothing among women. In India, various cities are known after their sari type and the weaving or printing technique used. Also, vice versa, where types of saris are named after its place of origin. Yadgiri, a place from the Indian state of Karnataka is one such art center famous for its traditional sari making techniques.
